Learn to suit up properly and everything else follows.
Whether you're an office guy who needs to look sharp for the competition, or a creative type who dresses up because he likes to, the suit is the basic building block of looking good. It's a timeless, ever adaptable. We'll get to the specifics of lapel widths and armholes and vents and how to do it right, but let's first agree that this is where dressing like a man begins. Get the basics down and then you can lose yourself in perfecting the details. |
1. What the Twenty-first- Century Suited Man Looks Like
Here and you'll see more than just a sharp-dressed man - you'll see a completely contemporary man. The secret? The trimness of the suit? Sure. The elegance of the details? Totally. But look a little closer and you'll notice what's not here: no aggressive plaids, no I'm-the-man pinstripes, no four-button jacket. Instead, the message is smart, confident, thoroughly put together. He makes a statement by not making one - or at least looking as if he's not trying so hard to make one. |
2. More Than Ever, It's About Fit
It doesn't matter what kind of suit you're investing in, whether it's $200 or $2,000, flannel or seersucker, two-button or three. The thing's got to fit right, or else there's no point in wearing it. Question is, what's the right fit, and how do you get it? A. A good suit should hug your shoulders, not slouch off them. Most guys think they're a size larger than they are—say, a 42 regular instead of a 40. When buying a suit, go ahead and try sizing down. When you pull on the jacket, there should be a firmness to it. You should snap to attention and stand taller. B. Think about the width of the sleeves C. Show some cuff. Your suit sleeves should end just above the hinges of your wrists, so a quarter to half inch of shirt cuff shows. It's like the frame on a painting—the elegant finishing touch. D. Your jacket should contour to your body. This will accentuate your shoulders—whether you've got strong ones or not. E. Flat-front pants, cut slim, with very little break at the ankle. This produces a long, clean look. Your pants should just clip the tops of your shoes, not bunch up over them. |
3. Wanna Step It Up? Nail the Finer Points
You know how a suit should fit. But what about all the details that define the style of a suit? There are millions of options. These are the ones that count. F. Nothing does more to dictate a suit's character than the lapel. We like a slim one, about two inches at its widest point. It's modern without being rock-star skinny. G. I swear by a two-button suit jacket. Sure, a three-button that's cut well can do the job, but a two-button is much more consistently reliable, no matter your shape or size. We typically opt for ones with low-button stances, because they create a long, slimming torso. They're foolproof. H. Ticket pocket? Sure. If you're into more of a British-dandy vibe, go for it. I. I like a traditional flap pocket. There's something a bit too '90s about those slit pockets. |